The rules of hair care are simple and finite (name that movie) but how many of us are taking care of our scalps? Taking care of your scalp is imperative when talking about hair care since they go hand-in-hand for shiny strands. We spoke to experts ranging from salon owners to doctors about the importance of this often-overlooked piece of self-care. 

Why is scalp care so important?

Sayaka Nitta, owner, head spa technician, and master stylist at Blow Me Away, an organic hair salon and head spa specializing in Japanese-method scalp revitalization in Los Angeles, says the scalp is the foundation for the hair — and if it’s not in good condition, hair won’t be able to grow properly. Proper scalp care can also help prevent hair loss and hair thinning as a healthy scalp is better able to support the growth of healthy, strong hair.

“A healthy scalp is necessary for healthy hair growth,” Nitta says. “[It] is also less likely to be itchy, flaky, or irritated, which can cause dandruff and other scalp conditions.”

Taking care of your scalp also helps promote blood circulation, which is essential for hair growth. Frequently removing the buildup of oils, dirt, and other impurities along with dead skin cells that can clog the hair follicles and inhibit hair growth is crucial for those luscious locks.

6 healthy scalp tips

1. Lather, rinse, repeat

David Mounce, a master stylist and Aveda Purefessional at Salon V in Chicago, says the old adage of “lather, rinse, and repeat” is a bit outdated at this point and everyone needs to find their flow when it comes to washing.

“The pendulum really seems to have pitched in a new direction. Today, the ‘no wash day’ has liberated many people from the idea of shampooing daily (or multiple times a day),” Mounce says. “Often, over-cleansing can result in a hyperactive oil production that has to level off over a period of a few days to a week before some people can really gauge how frequently they should shampoo.” 

Sanjay Batra, a regenerative medicine expert and founder and CEO of WETHRIVV agrees and says in reducing the amount of washing, the natural hair oils will signal to the hair follicles to stop making as much sebum. “I personally like to wash my hair about every other day and a bit more if I have an intense workout or go swimming (even in a saltwater pool),” he says.

He also suggests switching up your shampoo and conditioner brands regularly so the diverse ingredients help delay the build-up of residues on the scalp. “Mixing things up can make a lot of hair sense,” he says.  

So on the days when we’re not wearing our rubber ducky shower caps, how can we be sure we’re lathering correctly? Mounce offers the following game plan for wash days:

• Enjoy a comfortable water temperature that’s not too hot. 
• Use a small amount of shampoo (you can always add more). 
• Activate your shampoo with a splash of water to increase lather and help distribute through the hair. 
• Repeat if you didn’t get enough bubbles the first time (but it doesn’t have to squeak). 
• Apply conditioner to the ends of the hair first, working toward the scalp. Conditioner on the scalp is typically not necessary. That’s really close to the follicle where oil is produced, and that part of the hair hasn’t done any “living” (styling, sun/environmental exposure) yet so it usually doesn’t need added oil or moisture in that area. 
• Leave the conditioner in for a few minutes. Most manufacturers design their conditioners to do their work over two to five minutes. Rinsing too soon is washing money down the drain. 
   

2. Try a hair mask or specialty at-home treatment 

Nitta suggests the NEKKO (which means “root” in Japanese) scalp care line for at-home treatments, which focuses on anti-aging and prevents hair problems from happening in the first place. The line is super eco-friendly and uses clean ingredients too so you don’t have to worry about what you’re slathering on your scalp. 

Mounce says a hair and/or scalp mask that can treat damage, dryness, irritation, or thinning hair can be beneficial and recommends substituting a regular conditioner with a hair or scalp mask every five shampoos, on average.

He recommends the Aveda Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, which is a pre-shampoo cleanser that instantly reduces excess sebum, surface pollution, and product build-up. For a more intense treatment, he says to pick up the Aveda Overnight Scalp Renewal Serum, which is an overnight treatment that improves scalp hydration and barrier strength and soothes an irritated scalp for less redness. And for a real treat, a scalp massaging tool will give you the tingles while lifting impurities from the scalp.  

3. Check your environment, diet, and stress levels

In a modern world with all of its pollution, water quality, and nutrition issues, Batra says, the scalp can easily become inflamed or overworked by producing too much sebum, which will trap much of the pollution in the air. 

Diet and hair are also tightly intertwined, he says. A diet rich in flavonoids goes a long way, which can be achieved by eating plenty of salads with green leafy vegetables, herbs (like parsley and mint), and even curries. Keeping your blood sugar stabilized and eating a diet low in the glycemic index and processed ingredients will also help to obtain a healthy head of hair. Nitta adds that eating healthy fats like nuts, avocados, salmon, and beans as well as getting all of your vitamins and minerals, like selenium and iron, will help with healthy hair growth as well. 

Mounce says the scalp is directly connected to the sympathetic nervous system too and stress and tension often manifest in our scalps. He says to remember that stress can play a role in scalp and hair care too, noting that a healthy mind, body, and spirit is going to manifest healthy hair, skin, and scalp.

4. Try a vinegar rinse

Some people elect to wash their scalp with vinegar, Batra says, as this can help with the removal of residues from styling products. 

“The acetic acid in the vinegar also triggers the cells in the skin to start the process of making endogenous antioxidants (glutathione, superoxide dismutase, etc.),” he says. Endogenous antioxidants repair free radical damage and stimulate cell regeneration.

Recipes abound online but if you’d rather buy than DIY, there are options that will sit pretty in your shower stall. 

5. Turn to the pros

Look around for specialty scalp services at salons. Nitta says Blow Me Away has an extensive service menu for scalp treatments that’s totally personalized. They have custom head spa programs that address a variety of needs ranging from dry scalp, itchy scalp, oily scalp, clogged follicles, irritation, thin hair, and hair loss.

Batra says there’s no single, magic bullet for perfect scalp or hair health and the answer often lies in combination approaches that work synergistically and stresses the importance of prevention. He suggests using a product like REVIVV hair growth serum to promote both a healthy scalp and hair growth. 

“It’s free from irritating ingredients, includes ingredients such as taxifolin that reduce inflammation, and antioxidants that help to combat excess sebum production,” he says. 

Mounce says at his salon, they offer clients a stress-relieving scalp and shoulder ritual but that some opt for the professional Scalp Solutions Treatment, which is a personalized treatment for the scalp utilizing professional products paired with home care. 

6. Inspect your scalp regularly

Batra says the signs of stress to the scalp often manifest in the colder months and that hair tends to grow better when the weather warms up. However, the goal is to have a healthy scalp year-round since the benefits will carry through to the other seasons. Knowing how your skin reacts in different climates can help you take better care of your hair overall. 

“People react differently to the climates or locations,” Batra says. “Some people’s skin type prefers cooler climates, while others look good in tropical weather. More importantly, the scalp is your skin, so if your skin suffers, so does your scalp.”

A healthy scalp should appear pale gray and feel cool to the touch, Mounce says. An unhealthy scalp can show signs of imbalance including a redness that can be warm to the touch, excessive oiliness, excessive dryness that can be tight and flaky, or sometimes a combination can occur, where oiliness is present but loose or sticky flakes can appear. This can often indicate a dandruff condition or seborrheic dermatitis. 

“In addition to being itchy, unsightly, and uncomfortable, these conditions can impede heathy hair growth by actually blocking hair follicles,” Mounce says. 

Batra says the most prominent sign of an unhealthy scalp is indeed redness, but other symptoms include small pimples, declining hair density, dandruff, and an odor that conveys bacterial or fungal over-colonization. “An unhealthy scalp almost always leads to unhealthy hair, or worse, hair loss,” he says.

The bottom line: “Some people have to try harder than others to enjoy scalp health,” Batra says. “The measures that people will go to is truly a reflection of where they put their values. [The focus is] to prevent, rather than cure.”